In the culinary world, lemons are valuable. We use them in savory and baking recipes, we mix them into cocktails, we use them for colorful garnishes, we clean with them. They are, simply said, sort of perfect.
And while the fresh-off-the-tree lemon truly is a gift just as it is, we’re really into the lemon’s other, not-so-secret identity: the preserved lemon.
You may have seen them in jars, in the olive bin at the grocery store, or, if you’re lucky enough, at the markets of Marrakesh. Or maybe you’ve never seen them at all, in which case, keep reading, because you’re going to love these.
Preserved lemons are simple. They are lemons that have been packed into salt and left to cure until they are tangy, salty, and ultra-savory. Though the flesh can certainly be used, it is the rind that brings it all to the table. The process softens the rinds and draws out that bitterness that usually makes unsuitable for anything but zest. What remains is a floral punch of flavor that is an essential element of North African cuisine.
The tangy flavor of preserved lemons comes from the natural process of lacto-fermentation. This is a big topic, but lacto-fermentation is the process that you can thank for sauerkraut and some pickles. It occurs when wild bacteria turn the sugars in fruits and vegetables into lactic acid, creating that vaguely pickly “twang.” It occurs naturally, without the introduction of cultures or starters, and is a huge tool to yield in the kitchen, since you can lacto-ferment virtually any fruit or vegetable. If you’re interesting in more information on the subject, we recommend The Noma Guide to Fermentation from the chefs and fermentation-specialists at the renowned Copenhagen restaurant. It’s written for foodies and gives great instructions for fermenting with home tools and equipment (this isn't an ad, it's just an awesome book).
Despite knowing that there is some fermentation happening in your lemon jar, you shouldn’t be intimidated by homemade preserved lemons, because it’s a real set-it-and-forget-it situation. It is truly as simple as tossing lemon halves with salt and putting them away for a week or so (don’t worry, they last way longer!). You can add herbs or other flavorings, if you like, but for an all-purpose ingredient, we like to keep it simple.
Once your lemons are preserved, what do you do with them? Honestly, what don’t you do with them? To start, chopped preserved lemons naturally belong in Moroccan-style stews, tagines, and sauces. But you’ll also love them diced and tossed with marinated olives, minced into chicken salad, puréed with vinaigrette ingredients, or even sautéed with olive oil and garlic for a super simple weeknight pasta. You’ll love the small burst of unexpected brightness that you get in every bite.
Once you become accustomed to having preserved lemons, you’ll be lost without them. Take our word for it, and don’t find yourself lemon-less.